This weekend saw another visit to the city of Leon, this time with another friendly and welcoming family. The hospital here in El Sauce is an interesting place in that nearly all of the younger people who work in the hospital - doctors, nurses, techs and more- live in Leon and work in El Sauce. Leon is about 1.5 hours away by bus or interlocale(minvan that is waaaaaaay more comfy - usually) and is the capital of this department - and some would argue - one of the better cities in Nicaragua. So the people live in Leon with their families but spend the week here in El Sauce in rooms provided by MINSA - government department of health. So one of the doctors invited me to Leon to experience the festival and stay with her and her family - so I did. Just like everyone that I have met so far they were incredibly welcoming and warm - ready to chat and share their food, their house and their time. And it was quite the sharing - since there are 7 people who live in the house that is not very large to start! The doctor and her 8 year old son. 2 of her sisters - one of whom has a son of 2 years. The doctor's brother. And then their mother - la dona de la casa. So I made 8 and then there is actually another sister and her husband who live elsewhere but spent a lot of time with us so there were really 10 people in the house!
But as for the fiesta. This whole month there are special masses and rosaries in honor of the virgen but the real fun started on Friday. That night they were saying the rosary all night and the church was packed and beautifully decorated.
Then at 8 and again at 9 everyone gathered in the plaza outside the church for music and event where "toros" ran through the crowd. These 'toros' are pywood sheets that have fireworks - roman candles, sparklers among other things - attached. Some guy carries it above his head as it is lit and then runs through the crowd - amid screams, squeals and general chaos. I am sure it is incredibly unsafe, but it certainly was interesting.
Waiting for 9pm. There is an unwritten Nica rule that you are not allowed to look happy in photos...
El toro.
2 toros. There were 2 at 8pm and 3 at 9pm. I am pretty sure the safest place to be was underneath the board itself!
The next day began bright and early with Masses at 5,6,9 and 11 am - each an every one stuffed full. Then at noon the statue of the Virgen left from the church to parade around the town. The procession lasts about 30 blocks but doesn't return to the church until about 10pm! Each street that the Virgen passes is decorated by the owners to show their faith and devotion. I had the great luck that the procession passed by our house - but for the family this meant an entire day spent preparing the house - with flowers, ribbons, posters and more. It was really quite nice. Unfortuantely the rain arrived just before the Virgen. However, this only served the make things a bit damp - the Virgen and her devoted rode out the storm like champs - nothing a little plastic sheeting can't take care of.
La Virgen de la Merced.
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